The sport of sport climbing has quickly risen from a fringe activity to an Olympic sport drawing interest from athletes and fans worldwide. The sport was first presented at the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 in a novel and avant-garde format called the Sport Climbing Combined event. This format was one of the most physically and mentally taxing events in the Olympic arena requiring climbers to show their versatility across three very different disciplines: Lead Bouldering and Speed.
In-depth information about the sport climbing combined format, its Olympic history development controversy, athlete challenges and prospects for climbing at the Games are covered in this article.
Origins of Sport Climbing As Competitive Discipline
Sport climbing had gained popularity through World Cup circuits and international championships run by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) prior to its inclusion in the Olympics.
- In the past contests were separated into three distinct disciplines.
- Speed climbing is the competition to climb a standard 15-meter wall head-to-head.
- Bouldering is a test of power and problem-solving skills on short technical rope-free climbs.
- The goal of lead climbing is to use a rope and harness to climb as high as possible on a steep overhanging route while competing against gravity and time.
Different mental and physical skill sets were needed for each of these. Combining them into one event was a novel and contentious idea.
Sport Climbing’s Olympic Debut in Tokyo 2020
Because of restrictions on athlete quotas the International Olympic Committee (IOC) awarded only one set of medals per gender in Tokyo. The IFSC changed its format to a combined format in which participants had to compete in all three disciplines.
How it Operated:
- Six points are awarded for first speed × third bouldering × second lead. The winner was the one who received the lowest score among the finalists.
Why the Combined Format Was Controversial?
The format was criticized by many athletes and fans as being unjust. Here’s why.
- Problems with Specialization: Most climbers focus on one or two climbing disciplines. Because they had to compete in all three their performances were inconsistent.
- Speed as an Outlier: The physicality and style of speed climbing are very different. The result of a poor speed could drag down a climber who is good at bouldering and lead. A subpar performance was disproportionately penalized by the Multiplication Scoring System.
A climber’s hopes of winning a medal could be ruined if they place seventh in even one event.
Olympic Highlights: Notable Performances from Tokyo
Despite the format’s challenges, the Tokyo 2020 sport climbing event delivered intense action and emotional moments.
Men’s Final Highlights:
- Gold: Alberto Ginés López (Spain) – Benefited from a strong speed performance and consistent lead climbing.
- Silver: Nathaniel Coleman (USA) – Shocked the field with a standout bouldering performance.
- Bronze: Jakob Schubert (Austria) – Won the lead climb and clinched bronze.
Women’s Final Highlights:
- Gold: Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) – Widely considered the greatest female competition climber. She dominated bouldering and lead.
- Silver: Miho Nonaka (Japan) – Strong in both bouldering and speed.
- Bronze: Akiyo Noguchi (Japan) – Ended her career with a celebrated medal.
Climbing Format Changes for Paris 2025
In response to athlete feedback, the Paris 2025 Olympics split the combined format into two separate medal events:
- Speed Climbing: Now a standalone event with its own medals.
- Boulder & Lead Combined: Athletes compete in both bouldering and lead; scores are now added rather than multiplied.
This change was welcomed by most of the climbing community. It better reflects how the disciplines are contested in World Cup formats and rewards climbing skill more proportionately.
Sport Climbing’s Growing Popularity
The inclusion of climbing in the Olympics gave the sport mainstream exposure like never before. The aesthetic appeal of climbers scaling colorful walls, the drama of falls and sends, and the stories of resilience captivated viewers globally.
Post-Tokyo, indoor climbing gyms reported spikes in memberships. Youth climbing programs flourished, and more countries began investing in competitive climbing.
Streaming platforms and social media further amplified the reach. Athletes like Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos became international names, garnering fans both inside and outside the climbing world.
Climbing’s Place in Olympic Evolution
Climbing joins a growing list of “urban” and youth-friendly sports like skateboarding, BMX, and surfing being added to the Olympics. These sports are accessible, visually engaging, and resonate with younger audiences.
Its inclusion represents a shift in Olympic values – towards diversity, inclusivity, and connection with modern sports culture.
Challenges Ahead for Olympic Climbing
While the format for Paris 2025 is an improvement, challenges remain:
- Accessibility: Not all countries have access to training facilities with speed walls or IFSC-standard bouldering walls.
- Global Representation: The sport is still heavily dominated by a few countries like Japan, Slovenia, and the USA. Broadening international representation remains a goal.
- Scoring Transparency: While the new scoring system is clearer, climbing fans still debate fairness in subjective aspects like boulder problem setting.
Still, the momentum is strong, and climbing’s future in the Olympics looks solid, especially with hints of a possible return for Los Angeles 2028 and beyond.
Conclusion
The sport climbing combined event was a bold experiment that pushed athletes to their limits and exposed the beauty of climbing to millions. Though the original combined format will be replaced, its legacy gives assurance – it laid the groundwork for climbing’s future on the Olympic stage.
From the chalk-covered hands of a young boulderer in Tokyo to the roaring crowds in Paris, sport climbing has earned its place in the global arena.
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FAQs About Sport Climbing Combined Olympics
Sport climbing combined is a format where climbers compete in three disciplines – speed, bouldering, and lead – and their rankings are combined to determine overall results.
The format was revised due to athlete and fan feedback, which criticized the unfairness of combining three distinct disciplines, especially including speed, which is highly specialized.
Bouldering involves short, powerful problems on low walls without ropes. Lead climbing is a longer endurance climb on a tall wall using a rope for protection.
Notable names include Janja Garnbret (Slovenia), Alberto Ginés López (Spain), Akiyo Noguchi (Japan), and Adam Ondra (Czech Republic).
While not officially confirmed as of now, sport climbing’s success and popularity make it a strong candidate for inclusion in future Olympic Games.